The George

'Smart and stylish', this 19th-century former coaching inn in a pretty Cambridgeshire village has been given a 'slick modern feel' by owners Anne, Richard and Becky Furbank; Cynthia Schaeffer is the manager. 'The staff were consistently conscientious and polite,' say inspectors in 2011. The public areas are 'light and airy; lots of chunky wood furniture, neutral colours, parquet and stone flooring, leather furniture'. The bedrooms are named after famous Georges: 'Our room, Stevenson, had attractive proportions and low ceilings. Sumptuous without being overdone, it had exposed beams, crooked windows, sturdy oak furniture, a comfortable bed; a modern bathroom.' Pre-dinner drinks can be taken in the bar, with its 'laid-back, sociable atmosphere'. José Graziosi is the chef, serving modern 'if sometimes hearty' dishes: 'We particularly enjoyed our main courses of monkfish with mixed mushrooms, and blade of beef with creamy mash and jus.' Summer meals can be taken on the terrace. Breakfast has freshly squeezed orange juice with yogurt and honey; 'beautifully cooked' eggs Benedict; an 'impressive' range of cereals and other cooked options.

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Exemplary: unstuffy and friendly. The room could not have been better. It was spacious, with plenty of storage and a first-class bathroom. The good-sized bar has attentive table service. The restaurant produced a good dinner. Wines not over-priced. The cooked breakfast was substantial. It prides itself on being green.

Neil Gershon, 02/02/2012

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