Farlam Hall

'A sense of humour abounds alongside proper service' at this traditional hotel (Relais & Châteaux), an old manorial house which takes its character from a Victorian modernisation. It has been run by the Quinion family since 1975; they 'clearly take great pride in their country hotel and the service they provide', say recent visitors. The creeper-clad building stands in an 'immaculate' landscaped garden with a large ornamental lake, tall trees, a stream and a paddock. The ornate public rooms, filled with knick-knacks, fresh flowers and Victoriana, reflect its character. Drinks are served in the lounge (there is no bar). Barry Quinion's 'delicious' country house cooking might include dishes like sweet potato and chive soup; medallion of local beef with horseradish mash and pink peppercorn sauce and caramelised red onions. The 'old-fashioned way of serving vegetables' is appreciated. Bedrooms are priced according to size (best ones have a whirlpool bath). 'Our beautiful room had a huge new bathroom, and an American-size bed; it couldn't have been more comfortable. Breakfasts were lovely. Expensive, but well worth it.' (T and RV, MW)