Ballyvolane House

In north Cork farming country, this fine Georgian house is run in a 'relaxed, modern' style by Justin and Jenny Green. These 'generous, hospitable' hosts 'welcome guests to their family home on first-name terms, and foster a house-party atmosphere' (said inspectors). 'Justin gave us an informal greeting, showing us round before carrying our bags to our room. This had big sash windows overlooking the garden, lovely old furniture, an enormous bed, bottled water, home-made blackcurrant juice; in the large bathroom a claw-footed bath and a stag's head.' Guests help themselves to drinks from an honesty bar before the four-course no-choice dinner ('we'll think of a plan B if you don't like something'), taken at 8 pm around a huge mahogany table with silver candelabras. A reporter this year found the food cooked by Teena Mahon 'hearty and dazzlingly fresh (the potatoes had been dug up that afternoon)'. Typical dishes: goat's cheese and avocado salad; roast rib of McGrath's beef, rosemary and garlic potatoes. Breakfast, 'unrushed' and served until noon, has freshly squeezed juice, poached fruits and cereals from the sideboard; 'good cooked dishes'. Ballyvolane House has 'glorious' grounds, with woodland and three trout lakes, and it owns six miles of fishing on the River Blackwater. Children are warmly welcomed.