Hipping Hall

In a village near Kirkby Lonsdale, this 17th-century house (with other stone buildings) stands amid mature trees in 'immaculate' gardens. They have been turned by Andrew Wildsmith into a small hotel/restaurant that is much admired. He is 'hard-working, always present at mealtimes', say trusted correspondents on a return visit in 2009. 'The staff are without exception well trained and cheerful.' The bedrooms are individually decorated in contemporary style. 'Our room was given lightness and space by white walls, white rustic furniture and white carpet. Light poured in through the three windows. A well-sprung bed; smart bathroom.' A room which faces the back of the kitchen might get cooking smells. The lounge, in contrast to the bedrooms, has 'patterned wallpaper, large framed pictures, over-stuffed sofas and chairs, and a stone fireplace with open fire'. Michael Wilson is the new chef: the double-height 15th-century Great Hall, with tapestries and minstrels' gallery, is a 'remarkable setting for his accomplished cooking. Oxtail cannelloni, with a restrained addition of truffle oil, was followed by pink slices of lamb fillet and a ravioli of shoulder meat; artisan cheeses in good condition.' Breakfast 'is taken seriously: a selection of freshly squeezed juices, tea and coffee freshly made; eggs, bacon and sausages carefully sourced and cooked to order'. (David and Kate Wooff; also Gordon Murray)