Crinan Hotel

'Great location; quiet; good food and service.' 'Sensationally' set in a hamlet where the Crinan Canal meets the Atlantic, this white-painted building has been a hotel for 250 years. Nick and Frances Ryan (the artist Frances Macdonald, whose 'wonderful' paintings hang throughout) have owned and run it for 39 years. 'The hotel benefits from Mr Ryan's hands-on style,' says a visitor in 2009. 'The informal ambience is on of its charms.' Earlier praise: 'Luggage carried to our most agreeable bedroom: spacious, with large bed, armchairs from which to admire the view, fresh flowers, ornaments.' Some rooms have a balcony. At the top of the building, pre-dinner drinks are served in the panoramic Gallery Bar, and there is a new residents' observation lounge. The panelled Mainbrace bar provides seafood and traditional bar meals. The coffee shop serves snacks all day. In the 'well-proportioned' Westward restaurant, with candles, linen cloths and Lloyd Loom chairs, chef Gregor Bara (promoted from sous-chef) uses local produce in main courses like Aberdeen Angus fillet, braised shin, celeriac purée. One visitor wished that the menu had changed during a four-day stay, and added: 'No refreshments were offered when we arrived after a long drive.' Breakfast is 'impressive'. Children (they have their own menu) and dogs are welcomed. There is a lush 'secret garden' up the hill behind the hotel. (ST)