Gravetye Manor

'A lovely place to stay.' This creeper-clad Elizabethan manor house (Relais & Châteaux) stands amid woodland in grounds (open only to hotel guests) designed by William Robinson, pioneer of the English natural garden. It is owned and run by Andrew Russell (manager) and Mark Raffan (head chef), who worked for many years with the founders, Peter and Sue Herbert. 'The decor and furnishings in the public rooms and bedrooms are high grade, but a little stuck in a time warp: none the worse for that,' say visitors in 2009. Mr Russell tells us he has updated five bedrooms, but 'Gravetye is never going to be modern or trendy; most important, we do not intend to become a spa hotel'. Another guest this year praised the 'warmth of welcome, charming staff, and pleasing attention to detail'. Bedrooms (the best are large) have fruit, magazines and books; 'large and comfy bed'. The quality of the cooking in the oak-panelled restaurant (with open fire and patterned carpet) is 'extremely high'. The style is eclectic modern English, eg, gratin of lemon sole and lobster; slow-braised cheek of veal with a herb crust. 'Expensive, but achievable when you can get a special rate.' (Tony and Marlene Hall, Janine Roebuck)