The Crown

'Everything a small, privately owned country hotel should be,' say American visitors in 2009. A Guide inspector agreed: 'A real winner: an unpretentious inn with a remarkably sophisticated restaurant.' The owners, Chris Kirkbride and Sara and Dan Whittaker, have upgraded their much-extended 17th-century coaching inn, on the green of a picturesque village in Exmoor national park. 'We were warmly greeted; luggage carried to our large, double-aspect second-floor room, which had two armchairs, lots of storage; good shower over the bath.' The L-shaped lounge has plenty of armchairs and settees: 'Bland decor enlivened by large framed prints; leading off it is a pleasant cocktail bar.' The attractive restaurant (dark red walls, full-length cream curtains) has 'eye-catching' table settings, crisp white cloths, black napkins and glass tableware. The 'seriously good' cooking of chef Darren Edwards 'matches the promise of his enticing modern menu. Highlights were a duo of tempura langoustines with crushed basil, minted peas and lemon olive oil; halibut on garlic violet potatoes in a mussel broth; blackcurrant soufflé. Good wines by the glass.' There are blackboard specials on a bar menu; also curry nights. A stream runs through the large grounds. The original stabling is available for visitors on horseback ('it does happen in this hunting community'). (Steven M Schick Jr, and others)