Once the country home of the Earls of Seafield, this Victorian granite house, on the edge of a picturesque Speyside market town, is run as an 'unassuming' hotel by its owners, William and Sonia Marshall. They are 'business-like, friendly', say visitors who enjoyed tea by a 'welcoming' log fire. Mrs Marshall, a 'very good cook', serves a four-course dinner in a candlelit dining room (open to non-residents), also with log fire. 'Thoughtful combinations included venison with blackberries and chocolate sauce (gorgeous); a beautiful local fillet steak; best of all, seasonal fresh vegetables were served separately; a Pavlova was delightfully soft.' Of the 'immaculate' bedrooms, 'our spacious room had a nice firm bed; the bathroom was chilly; they turned the heating on early for us'. The lounge has original wood panelling, 'lots of easy armchairs and sofas', watercolours, antique maps, a fine choice of malt whiskies. 'Breakfasts were splendid; porridge, fruits, delicious potato scones, plenty of cooked choices; wholemeal bread with a nutty crunch.' Salmon and sea-trout fishing on the Spey, as well as private beats with ghillie service, can be arranged. Anagach Woods adjoin the garden. (Jill and Mike Bennett)