Hambleton Hall

'Nothing much changes here, thank goodness,' say trusted Guide reporters returning this year to Tim and Stefa Hart's 'splendid' country house hotel (Relais & Châteaux). The setting is 'memorable', on a peninsula jutting into Rutland Water. 'The staff balance professionalism with relaxed friendliness. The decor, which some might find a little traditional, is sumptuous and comfortable.' Other praise in 2009: 'Simply a league above the competition: service, cooking, wine list, ambience, value are exceptional.' Stefa Hart designed the classic interiors (fine fabrics, antiques, good paintings, open fires, flowers) with Nina Campbell. 'Excellent' bedrooms have 'nice small touches like a Roberts radio'. The Croquet Pavilion suite is good for a family (children are welcomed; the very young get an early supper). In the dining room, chef Aaron Patterson has long held a Michelin star for his seasonal cooking ('it never disappoints'), eg, sautéed scallops with onions and lemon grass sauce; loin of rabbit with pearl barley risotto. Continental breakfast, included in the price, is 'generous: a cornucopia of fruits and cereals; hot toast and croissants just when you want them'. The bread comes from Mr Hart's new bakery. 'The gardens have matured and are suitably manicured, the views down to the water are superb.' Tim Hart also owns Hart's Hotel, Nottingham (qv). (Kate and David Wooff, Robert Gower)