Composed of the village smithy and other buildings, this small hotel has been 'radically renovated', since they bought it, by Andrew and Jacquie Pern, owners of the popular Star Inn 'a few steps away' (see next entry). Their former head chef, Peter Neville, has returned from the Michelin-two-starred Hibiscus in London as their working partner; many of the staff have remained from the previous regime. Inspectors were impressed: 'A friendly welcome from a receptionist who showed us the smart public areas. Our bedroom had a warm, bright feel; a modern four-poster without drapes, clean beige and cream tones, Shaker-style furnishings. Everything was comfortable and convenient; the small bathroom was well thought out, with space for personal clutter.' The oak-beamed bar and lobby, decorated in country style, have exposed stone work, tartan wall coverings. The large lounge opens on to a stone-flagged terrace. Local, seasonal ingredients are 'sensitively handled' in the 'elegant' restaurant (with 'subdued lighting'). 'Gratin of mussels redolent of the sea; best end of lamb, pink and juicy, with a perfect wild garlic risotto, pickled clam. Service was friendly; piped music not overly intrusive.' Breakfast in a conservatory has a buffet of juices, fruit salads and compotes; 'good full English; interesting egg dishes'. There is a kidney-shaped indoor swimming pool. (Endorsed by Gordon Murray)