The Old Bridge

'An excellent, friendly place; they were not at all put out by our appearing at 11.30 pm.' This year's praise for John Hoskins's handsome, creeper-clad 18th-century building, once a private bank, by a medieval bridge over the River Ouse. Nina Beamond is the manager. 'Even the smallest double room was impeccably kitted out and had a very good bathroom.' Earlier visitors liked their 'wonderfully comfortable, spacious, well-thought-out bedroom and bathroom'. Mr Hoskins, a Master of Wine, has opened a wine shop in the hotel: not surprisingly, the wine list in the restaurant ('with lovely large oval cupola') is 'outstanding, mark-ups reasonable or non-existent'. The chef, Simon Cadge, serves a monthly-changing menu of modern dishes, perhaps tortellini of Portland crab with leeks; rump of lamb, potato and celeriac boulangère. The building is hedged in by a busy traffic system but has triple glazing and air conditioning, and the small riverside garden is relatively peaceful. The bedrooms are themed: there are mosaic tiles, chaises longues, an up-to-date music system, a smart bathroom (some have a claw-footed bath). Early morning tea and a free newspaper are delivered to the room; shoes are shined; there is free Wi-Fi. Breakfast includes scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. (Richard Baker, and others)