Gruline Home Farm

Once again, everything was found 'first class' at this 'handsome' conversion of a non-working 19th-century farmhouse and its outbuildings overlooking the foothills of Ben More on a remote peninsula. For 11 years it has been run by the 'warmly welcoming' (except to children) owners, Colin (the chef) and Angela Boocock. They tell us that they will review their plans for retirement at the end of the 2010 season: 'Many of our guests return year on year, and we feel we would be letting them down.' Access is along a long, rough drive, and arriving guests are given afternoon tea in a conservatory. The house is well decorated: good antique and modern furniture. All the bedrooms have been refurbished this year, and there are new carpets, curtains and furniture. In the 'attractive' dining room, open to non-residents, a dinner-party atmosphere is encouraged. 'Colin's cooking and presentation skills appear endless; Angela maintains her enthusiasm in her fine delivery of everything.' The four-course dinner might include pan-fried prawn tails in a ginger and cream sauce; escalope of venison in a juniper and red wine sauce. No licence (bring your own wine; no corkage charged), but you are offered complimentary sherry. Breakfast has 'outstanding' warm fruit compote, and lots of cooked dishes. (Joan and David Marston)