'Shelburne Lodge continues to operate at a very high standard,' reports a visitor this year, returning to Tom and Maura Foley's handsome 18th-century farmhouse just outside the town. 'As usual, we had a warm welcome from the family, and a very comfortable bed.' The oldest house in the area, it has large grounds with lawns, a grass tennis court, a small orchard and a pretty herb garden. It is filled with antiques and modern art; there are log fires; striking colours on the landing. Visitors are 'treated to tea and delicious home-made cake' in one of the elegant sitting rooms. The spacious bedrooms are traditionally furnished. Two (one big enough for a family) are in a coach house, which has a separate lounge. Tom Foley is in charge of the breakfast, served in a spacious room: 'The best ever; a choice of fresh fish each day, plus smoked salmon, full cooked, etc; delicious fruit salads.' Kenmare, a 'short, flat' walk away, has plenty of eating places. Packies (owned by the Foleys) and Mulcahy's are both recommended. For lighter daytime meals, Maura Foley's sister runs the Purple Heather bistro. (Esler Crawford, RL)