'What a lovely place. The food was extraordinarily good.' The 'delightful' Mary Ann Gilchrist, and her 'affable' husband, Alan, run their unpretentious, 'very pleasant' restaurant-with-rooms in a building near the River Irfon in this old spa town. They live 175 yards away, but can be reached by intercom when not on the spot. 'Our room was small and a touch noisy, but it had all we needed, and did not break the bank,' says a visitor this year. An earlier comment: 'The accommodation was spacious, well equipped, beautifully decorated.' The building, window and door frames painted blue, 'is hard to miss'. Its interior is 'tasteful in brown and cream'. The L-shaped lounge (with bar and library) is comfortable if 'a little small', and well lit (large windows). In the 'simple but elegant' dining room, the best tables face the river. The food 'was, as ever, innovative, delicious; recommended wines a superb complement' (the list has more than 80 wines and many half bottles). Mrs Gilchrist, 'passionate about cooking', serves main courses like grilled cod with spring onion mash, stir-fried pak choi. There are two fixed-price menus, one with limited choice, and 'very good' vegetarian options (discuss these in advance). Breakfast, 'a joy', has fresh orange juice, 'very good scrambled eggs'. (John Moy, and others)