The Albannach

Review

Picture windows in the intimate dining room of this handsome, white-painted 19th-century house look over a deep sea loch to the dome of Suilven. It stands in a walled garden with mature trees and shrubs, high above Lochinver's working harbour. Colin Craig and Lesley Crosfield, the 'unpretentious and easy' owner/manager/chefs, gained a Michelin star in 2009. 'Perfect,' say visitors in 2009. An earlier comment: 'Considerate service; imaginative cooking.' There is no choice on the five-course hand-written dinner menu (preferences discussed in advance), which is based on local produce, eg, monkfish tail wrapped in air-dried ham; roast fillet of Highland beef, roast vegetable parcel, thyme mash, amontillado sauce. The fish and shellfish come from the harbour, herbs and vegetables are organically grown, bread and oatcakes are home baked. There is no bar 'but drinks can be ordered anywhere' (they might be accompanied by fresh oysters). The conservatory, the Snug (wood panelled and with an old stone fireplace) and all the bedrooms, share the view. The penthouse suite up steep steps is 'large and luxurious'; the byre suite has a conservatory sitting room and a hot tub on its terrace. 'Good breakfasts.' (JS Waters, R and TB, and others)