The Capital

'An oasis of civilised calm', David Levin's 'grand hotel in miniature' is hidden away in a side street near Harrods. The ambience is luxurious, discreet and traditional. Visitors write of 'seriously high standards', and praise the staff ('attentive without obsequiousness'). The comfortable bedrooms have heavy fabrics, flowers, double glazing, air conditioning, marble bathroom. 'Big, firm' beds have Egyptian cotton sheets and duvet. In the compact restaurant, 'service is efficient'. Jérome Ponchelle, fomerly at Wiltons is the hotel's new chef. There is an 'extensive wine list' (some wines from Mr Levin's vineyard in the Loire). 'Good breakfasts' and 'afternoon tea of impeccable country house standard'. Guests can also eat at the basement brasserie, Le Metro, in The Levin (qv), the sister hotel next door, and they have access to a nearby health club (£10 per person).