Meudon

'Splendid location in lovely grounds. Impeccable service and attention.' This year's praise for this red brick building with a large 1960s extension and a decor of 'patterned carpets and chintz'.. Its subtropical 'hanging gardens' with rare shrubs, plants and trees lead down a valley to a private beach. The veteran Harry Pilgrim is chairman; his son, Mark, the fifth hotelier generation, is managing director. The traditional values include turn-down service at night and shoe cleaning. An earlier endorsement: 'Staff, rooms, and variety and quality of food, all excellent.' All bedrooms have double-glazed windows. Suites have a patio or balcony; one has an adjoining room for children. The comfortable main lounge has open fire, flowers and 'lovely garden views'. A 'dress code of jacket and tie' is encouraged for evening dining: 'As a tie-wearer, perhaps a dying breed, I found this pleasing,' one correspondent tells us. In the restaurant, chef Alan Webb uses local produce, including fresh fish from Newlyn, for his daily-changing menus, eg, smoked salmon and crab roulade; roast noisettes of Cornish lamb. 'The cooking is never repetitive.' A yacht is available for skippered charter; garden packages, creative writing weekends, etc, are offered. (Philip Quick, K and ME)