Morston Hall

In an area of outstanding natural beauty on the north Norfolk coast, this Jacobean flint-and-brick mansion 'lived up to its reputation for exceptional food' when inspectors called. Owners Tracy (front-of-house) and Galton Blackiston, chef/patron (who appears on television), are sometimes away. 'In their absence, service by the attentive young British staff was excellent, and the cooking of head chef Samantha Wegg was impeccable.' Guests gather at 7.30 pm for aperitifs and canapés in two lounges with log fires and candles. In the dining room and conservatory, the four-course dinner menu changes daily: no choice until dessert or cheese; menus discussed in advance ('dislikes easily dealt with'). 'A sublime balance of ingredients, each flavour distinct. A highlight was a single seared scallop with a sliver of crisp Alsace bacon and sautéed horse mushrooms.' Bedrooms are in the main house and in a 'discreet' single-storey villa in the gardens. 'Ours was huge, on two levels, with an enormous bed; patio doors opened on to a terrace overlooking fields; the hi-tech bathroom had a built-in TV.' Tables are laid with blue gingham for breakfast: 'superb fruit salad, a warm blueberry muffin, toast from decent bread'; 'fantastic, creamy scrambled eggs'. (Ken and Priscilla Winslow, Anne and Denis Tate, and others)