Mornington House

Review

Built on the site of an ancient castle, this substantial old Anglo-Irish house has been owned by one family since 1858. Its present incumbents, Warwick and Anne O'Hara ('wonderful, welcoming hosts, great conversationalists'), entertain guests on a house-party basis, with meals served around one large table. 'Grand yet homely', it stands in grounds with ancient trees, near the fish-filled Lough Derravaragh. Much of the furniture is original; there are family portraits, strong colours on walls, oriental rugs. Visitors help themselves to drinks in the 'pleasant, light' drawing room where a turf or log fire burns in cold weather. Mrs O'Hara's country house cooking, using vegetables, fruit and herbs from the walled garden, is much admired. Vegetarians are 'particularly welcome', but should give advance notice. Mr O'Hara cooks the 'very good' breakfast: fresh orange juice; 'superb home-made muesli and brown bread; a full Irish fry'; linen napkins. Bedrooms are 'a bit idiosyncratic'. 'Ours was large, quiet, with plenty of light.' More reports, please.