Kirroughtree House

'It just gets better,' according to a correspondent on his fourth visit to 'this very well-run hotel' in large grounds by the Galloway Forest Park. The imposing, white, bow-windowed mansion is owned by the small McMillan group and managed by Jim Stirling, who 'takes great pride in looking after his guests'. 'The service was personal, friendly; we were met in the car park, and cases were collected.' Arriving visitors are given afternoon tea with silver service in one of the 'elegant' public rooms. Housekeeping is 'faultless' in the bedrooms; all are supplied with sherry and fruit. A 'well-furnished' second-floor room had 'marvellous views and a great bath'. Men are required to wear a jacket and tie at dinner ('dressing up adds to the occasion'). The chef, Rolf Mueller, serves modern European dishes on his 'varied' menus, eg, chicken liver and foie gras parfait; fillet of turbot and brill, turned potatoes, spring onions. 'Dietary preferences are accommodated and remembered for returning guests.' An earlier comment: 'A totally consistent standard of a style.' Breakfast is 'really good'. The 'book town' of Wigtown is nearby. (Jeffrie Strang, and others)