The Elephant

In a 'characterful' village on the Thames (rewarding tow-path walks), this 19th-century hotel has been modernised by Christoph Brooke's small Hillbrooke group, which has restored the original name (abandoned in the 1960s). Managed by Annica Eskelius, 'it scores in all departments,' said an inspector in 2009, 'warmth of the staff, attractive accommodation, seriously good cooking, reasonable prices.' The decor and furnishings have oriental references ('elephant theme played up in the public rooms'). The public bar, BaBar, is 'clearly popular' with locals. 'Our bedroom, in an annexe to the side, overlooked an attractive garden; it was so immaculate we might have been the first users: a spotless bathroom; appropriate accessories included ironing board and hairdryer. Inadequate bedside lighting was the only let-down.' Rooms at the front face the main crossroads in the village. Service was 'admirable' in the large dining room where Douglas Lindsay's cooking 'exceeded expectations: not a bit precious, skilfully using good produce. A generous plate of smoked salmon and grapefruit; belly of pork with bubble and squeak; vanilla panna cotta with rhubarb. Breakfast continued to impress: unusually good coffee, three versions of eggs Benedict, smoked haddock.' Two of The Elephant's sister hotels have a Guide entry: The Bath Arms, Horningsham, and The New Inn, Coln St Aldwyns.