The Oaks

Review

In an elevated position on the edge of a village where the Exmoor national park meets the sea, this gabled Edwardian country house has pretty gardens with wide lawns and oak trees. It has long been run, 'almost single-handed', by its 'very nice' owners, Tim and Anne Riley, 'with quiet efficiency'. Guests love its traditional style and 'old-fashioned courtesy'. Cases are carried, and tea, coffee and shortbread are served free of charge to arriving visitors. The main lounge has an open fire, chintzes, oil paintings and prints. All bedrooms have sea views, fresh flowers and Egyptian cotton bedlinen. 'Ours was beautifully kept, and had comfortable easy chairs,' said a recent guest. The extras like fresh milk and fruit are appreciated. Tables are arranged around the panoramic windows of the restaurant to take advantage of the views of Porlock and the Bristol Channel. Anne Riley's four-course dinner menu changes daily. Dishes might include cream of pear and watercress soup; guineafowl breast in Parma ham with prunes and Armagnac. Service, by Tim Riley, is 'superb'. A warning: 'The hotel's entrance is at a sharp angle of the main road.' (Michael and Jenifer Price, DS)