driftwood hotel

Down a private lane with 'beautiful sea views' over the Roseland peninsula, this 'happy place to stay' is owned and managed by Paul and Fiona Robinson. They keep 'a close eye on every aspect', says a visitor this year; their staff are 'anxious to please'. 'An idyllic spot. Most guests are on a return visit.' The interiors are contemporary: colours are white with shades of blue; there are, rugs on bare floorboards, driftwood table lamps and mirrors. 'The theme and style are consistent throughout; it is elegant and understated.' Almost all the bedrooms face the sea; ground-floor rooms have their own decked terrace. Even a small room 'was perfectly adequate; it had the view'. Summer lunches can be taken on a large decked terrace. In the evening, in the candlelit dining room, the chef, Chris Eden, serves modern European dishes, including a tasting menu which might include red mullet and mackerel tartare, oyster beignet; sirloin of beef, shallot purée, beer-pickled onions, rösti, port jus. 'Dinner was delicious, with home-made bread, good local fish; they were especially helpful over a no-fat diet.' The 'lavish' breakfast is liked. Steep steps lead through woodland down to a beach (picnics are available). The Eden Project and the 'Lost' Gardens of Heligan are within a half-hour drive. (Dr and Mrs Peter Partner, Claire Haigh)