Plas Bodegroes

'It pulls off a difficult trick by balancing the warmth of small scale and access to fresh local produce with the professionalism and high standard of a first-rate, busy city restaurant.' 'A most enjoyable three nights.' Praise this year for Chris Chown and his wife, Gunna, at their restaurant-with-rooms in a white, Georgian manor house. The setting is 'idyllic', up an avenue of beech trees in lovely wooded grounds. 'Gunna provides a friendly, professional service from the clockwork pre-dining sequence' ('delicious pre-starters' in the bar). The 'gorgeous' L-shaped dining room has 'delightful illuminated display cabinets', polished wood floor, modern Welsh paintings, 'perfect lighting'. Chris Chown's 'classically based' use of local ingredients, in dishes like chargrilled rib-eye of Welsh Black beef with braised cheek ('one the best cuts of beef I have ever tasted'), is much admired. The wine list, 'one of the best in Wales', has a wide selection of half bottles. Meal service can be leisurely. The 'attractively furnished' bedrooms have Scandinavian-style decor, flat-screen TV and Wi-Fi. Guests are advised that two smaller attic rooms are best for a one-night stay. Two rooms are in a cottage, facing a tranquil courtyard garden. (Seth O Thomas, Brian Pullee, Jacqueline and Philip Speakman)