Fairyhill

Review

Fairyhill's large grounds have manicured lawns with sculptures, woodland, a trout stream and a lake with wild ducks. And this small, creeper-covered, 18th-century mansion is near the magnificent beaches of the Gower coast. Andrew Hetherington, front-of-house, owns it with Paul Davies (chef with James Hamilton). Service ('first class,' one couple wrote) is by young men in black. All bedrooms (a few are a bit small) have flat-screen TV/DVD/CD-player and free Wi-Fi. 'Our spacious room had a large bathroom; fruit bowl replenished daily; housekeeping immaculate.' 'Ours was lovely; dinner was superb.' Imaginative dishes in modern Welsh style include slow-braised Welsh Black ox cheek with crispy bacon, root vegetables and mash. There's a strong commitment to local and organic produce. Breakfast has 'a comprehensive buffet and the usual cooked offerings'. Jam, biscuits and bread are home made; a walled garden and orchard provide vegetables, herbs and fruit. Holistic treatments can be arranged. Some visitors find the muzak played in the public areas 'ghastly'. (R and CS, HB)