The Rose and Crown

Beside the Saxon church opposite the green (where the stocks still stand) in a Teesdale village, this 18th-century, creeper-clad coaching inn is admired. 'We were impressed by the meals, the service and the hospitality,' say visitors in 2009, endorsing earlier praise ('excellent in every way'). It is owned and run by Alison and Christopher Davy (he is joint chef with Andrew Lee); Jenny Hollando (now married, formerly Ranner) is the manager. There are stone walls, beams and panelling; log fires, old farming implements, grandfather clocks, gleaming brass and copper and fresh flowers in the public areas. All the bedrooms, which vary in size and style, have now been refurbished. Rooms in the main house may have beams, antiques; some have a private sitting room. The five rooms in a courtyard at the back of the house are good for dog-owners and walkers, and have a more contemporary decor. The four-course menu has modern English dishes 'with a regional influence', eg, baked smoked salmon soufflé; roast Teesdale Fell lamb, confit of shoulder, Madeira jus; lemon posset with red berry compote. The bread, marmalade and jams at breakfast are home made. The Davys have written a 'very useful' guidebook to local attractions, which include High Force, England's highest waterfall. (Dursley Stott, MA)