Tresanton

On a hillside amid terraced subtropical gardens, this luxurious yet informal hotel is a cluster of old houses looking across a narrow promenade to the Fal estuary. Owned by Olga Polizzi and managed by Federica Bertolini, it garnered much new praise in 2009: 'Setting, food, service and decor all faultless.' 'So thoughtfully planned and carefully run.' 'Still our favourite hotel; pristine, very comfortable. Attention to detail makes it special.' 'Staff were attentive, helpful; they magically produced a waterproof to fit my diminutive partner when she forgot hers.' Most bedrooms (the best are big) have sea views. 'We were charmed by our room, with an adjacent bathroom and study; though it was over the kitchens there was only the slightest trace of noise in the morning.' Meals can be taken alfresco on the terrace ('like being on a ship's deck') or in the restaurant (which has an informal dress code), where white-topped tables are close together (at busy times guests may be 'cheek by jowl'). Chef Paul Wadham's short daily-changing menu has 'delicious' modern dishes. 'We much enjoyed our meals; served in a friendly and professional manner: duck with honeyed baby vegetables, tender and flavoursome; elegantly presented brill; excellent puddings.' 'The way in which children are made welcome gives a special holiday atmosphere to what might otherwise be a slightly over-sophisticated seaside hotel.' 'One of those occasions when a big bill seems good value.' Mrs Polizzi also owns Hotel Endsleigh, Milton Abbot (qv). (John Godfrey, Margaret Mallett, David Haigh)