Gilpin Lodge

'Exceptional; a wonderful welcome from every member of staff.' Praise in 2009 for this Edwardian building (Relais & Châteaux) set amid woodland and gardens. John and Christine Cunliffe have run it as a country house hotel since 1987; they are supported by son Barney and his wife, Zoë. 'Their skill in interior design is evident.' Regular visitors appreciate the informal 'hands-on owner management' and the commitment not to hold weddings or corporate events. A drawing room opens on to the 'modern, bright bar'. The restaurant, in four rooms, is 'calm' (no muzak). Russell Plowman joined as chef in January 2009. His style is modern ('we are passionate about using local and organic ingredients'): perhaps ballottine of organic salmon, horseradish and potato mousse; loin of local venison in pancetta. Light lunches are served in the lounge. Each bedroom is named after a local beauty spot; some have a four-poster, some a whirlpool bath. The six garden suites have a contemporary decor. 'Even the smaller rooms are comfortable.' A backpack with maps and books of walks is provided for hikers. 'Breakfast, a leisurely affair, has fruity starters, a great collection of hot dishes.' 'Expensive, but worth it.' (David and Bridget Reed, EM Arnold, John and Jackie Tyzak)