The Gurnard's Head

'A laid-back, right-on kind of place', this yellow-painted inn is 'one of the best pubs we have stayed in', says a regular Guide reader this year. Owned by brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin (see also The Felin Fach Griffin, Felin Fach, in Wales, qv), it has a 'wonderful position' on the 'last stretch of the Cornish coast that hasn't been swamped by tourism'. Andrew Wood is the 'charming' manager. The bar has old tables and chairs, rugs on stone floor, log fires, books everywhere. A snug with big sofas leads to the simply furnished, candlelit restaurant. The chef, Robin Wright, 'takes his food-sourcing seriously': local farmers deliver vegetables and herbs, fish comes from Newlyn. A reporter this year enjoyed 'the meal of the year. Fillet of roast hake with rosemary mash, pancetta and spinach with a Béarnaise sauce was an entirely successful combination of flavours and textures.' There is 'nothing fancy' in the bedrooms, which have a digital radio rather than a TV. 'Our small room was very comfortable, with a superb bed; looking out the window to see the cows on their way to milking was memorable.' The 'excellent' breakfast has rustic breads on a side table with a toaster, home-made marmalade, jam and lemon curd in large jars. (Nigel Mackintosh, and others)