'A little difficult to find, but well worth the effort,' says a visitor in 2009. On the edge of the South Downs, Rowland and Mary Leach run their 'beautiful' Georgian house ('sympathetically restored') as an informal restaurant-with-rooms in relaxed style. 'Rowland Leach,' said an inspector, 'is sociable, unpretentious, charmingly eccentric, with out-of-control hair, and wearing baggy shorts all year round.' The 'professional' manager, Richard Macadam, has 'a warm, easy manner'. 'Guests are made to feel comfortable, whether formally or casually dressed.' In the blue-walled dining room, with musicians' gallery, chef Darren Brown has a Michelin star for his 'superb' modern British, French-influenced cooking (eg, pressed terrine of rabbit, truffled fine bean salad; baked hake, white bean stew, baby fennel and confit lemon). The public rooms have antiques on polished floors, plenty of seating, modern art (for sale). Drinks are taken in the large lounge (with red walls and chairs, yellow curtains). 'Everything exudes quality' in the bedrooms, which have French antiques, big bed, modern fabrics. 'Cedar, recently refurbished, was in excellent order; its spacious bathroom has an actual bath.' 'Our large room was thoughtfully furnished; trendy fittings; flat-screen TV/DVD; powerful shower (no bath); superb views; sheets and blankets as we requested.' English breakfast has fruit, cereals, yogurts, croissants, 'excellent' coffee, 'thick-cut bacon', but one reader found service 'erratic'. Weddings and other celebrations are held. (J Rochelle, and others)