The Lake

Built as a hunting lodge, this mock-Tudor Edwardian hotel in 'beautiful' grounds by the River Irfon is endorsed by Guide readers again in 2009. 'Excellent by any standards,' is one comment. Owner Jean-Pierre Mifsud circulates among guests during dinner; his staff are 'helpful, courteous'. The lounges are richly furnished, with paintings, log fires; one has a grand piano. The dress code in the formal dining room is smart casual (no jeans). Chef Sean Cullingford serves a modern menu, perhaps pressing of Raglan ham and foie gras; fillet of sea bass, scallop and tomato nage. Vegetarians have their own menu with equal choice. One visitor commented on the coldness of the red wine served straight from the cellar. Twelve suites in a new wing are 'tastefully done'; a room for wheelchair-users has been 'thoughtfully designed'. Bedrooms in the main house are being upgraded. The Badger suite has been given a 1920s theme based on a black lacquered screen found in the hotel's attic. Breakfast has 'everything you would expect'. The Kingfisher spa has a 'good-sized' swimming pool, health and beauty treatments. There are black swans on the lake which has 'been restocked with trout; unfortunately an otter has been spotted'. Good golfing, fishing and other open-air pursuits are nearby. (Dr Mike Irving, John and Jackie Tyzack)