La Sablonnerie

'A force of nature', Elizabeth Perrée, owner of this 'idiosyncratic' little hotel/restaurant on the quiet southern corner of this car-free island, is 'around most of the time, and on friendly terms with her guests'. 'She and her staff always addressed us by name,' say inspectors in 2009. The cooking of chef Colin Day is 'a great strength'. His daily-changing table d'hôte is served by solicitous young waiters in the small dining room (formal place settings, elegant white china, no muzak). 'Delicious quail's egg on asparagus; lovely crab soup; freshly caught sea bass with a mussel cream sauce; delicious desserts, eg, chocolate parfait with poached pears.' The bedrooms vary greatly; most are in small buildings in the garden. 'Ours was quite basic: only one bedside light; no extras; heating by an electric heater. Comfortable bed with sheets and blankets; the night was beautifully quiet.' Some spacious rooms are in cottages. There is a 'lovely, large' room above the bar, but it might be noisy at times. Breakfast has cereals and stewed fruit; 'so-so' toast and jams; 'perfect' scrambled eggs. La Sablonnerie has many fans. 'As wonderful as ever,' one wrote. 'The glories are the lovely, large garden with benches for alfresco drinks and eating in summer, and the walks from the door.' Guests are brought by horse-drawn open cart, 'romantic on a sunny day, less so when it is pouring with rain'. (John Barnes, and others)