'One of the best country houses we have stayed in,' writes a reader of this white-painted Georgian gentleman's residence with glorious views over Esthwaite Water to the Langdale Pikes. Beatrix Potter spent the first of three summers here in 1896, arriving by phaeton, and would today find it little changed – in all the best ways. The ambience is pure home, sweet home: 'warm, comfortable, traditional'. Sink into an armchair for tea by a blazing fire in a lounge with ticking clock, fringed lamps, floral fabrics, Staffordshire dogs. 'Lovely comfy rooms' mix period and contemporary furniture and are supplied with a decanter of amontillado. Most have a shower only. Genial host Richard Lee cooks a three-course dinner, served in a beautiful dual-aspect dining room. He is 'a perfectionist, and wow, can he cook!' Typical dishes: potted lemon sole, nut-brown butter, herbs; pan-fried noisette of lamb. 'Creamy mushroom soup with a pastry crust' was a big hit. 'One of the guests asked if he could have it for breakfast next day.' More conventional choices include a kipper or a hearty full English, fuel for a stroll to Potter's house, Hill Top, in Far Sawrey. (Colin and Lynda Jones)