In the Périgord Noir, this 'true gem' is run by its 'genial' Swiss owners, Heinz and Rita Johner. An ivy-covered 18th-century house, it stands amid pretty countryside, in a park above the Cingle de Trémolat, a spectacular loop in the Dordogne. 'Our room opened on to the garden. Super food; advice given on local (inexpensive) wine. One day we walked to Trémolat, sat on the bank, and watched buzzards gliding on the thermals — magic.' All bedrooms are different. One first-floor suite has its own stone staircase and a sunny balcony, with chairs, looking over the garden. Housekeeping and breakfast are 'excellent'. Regional dishes are served in a wood-beamed dining room with a beautiful fireplace, or on a terrace. Half-board guests have a daily-changing set five-course menu, or they can choose from the carte. The 'lovely pool' is surrounded by a lawn and loungers. Popular in summer with families.