You can watch the ferries from the opulent lounge or terrace of this Victorian seafront hotel, which reopened in 2022 under new ownership after a six-figure transformation. 'The decor is bold, chic and quirky,' writes a reader, who thought it 'a gem', even though their room was 'a little dark'. Rooms range from very snug to spacious, with a sea or woodland view, while all have a fridge, fresh milk, a rainfall shower and luxury toiletries. There is classic Italian cooking in the flamboyant Porcini, while breakfast choices include smoked haddock; a full Scottish with rösti and Stornaway black pudding; fresh-baked croissants and crumpets. 'The staff were very helpful and friendly, and the food excellent.'