Cross the causeway to an island 'renowned for its seafood', which you can eat at this gastropub-with-rooms, left empty and derelict from 2013 until Piers Baker (see The Sun Inn, Dedham), stepped in to revamp it in 2021. Reopened in June 2022, it's in the village, with distant sea views from some rooms. While it's 'still a locals' local', our inspector says that it 'feels less like a pub than a modern restaurant, with parquet floor, wooden tables and chairs, colourful banquettes'. Six 'contemporary cool' bedrooms, 'some in jaunty colours', have 'beautiful modern bathrooms, enormous walk-in showers and Bramley products'. The food is 'definitely a highlight', with a 'surprising number of meat dishes on the seasonal menu, given the location'. 'Mersea oysters were delicious; mussels with white wine and garlic also a must.' Vegetarian options included 'divine asparagus fritter with pea aioli', the 'tempura courgette flower with basil and tofu mousse equally tantalising to the tastebuds'. The long wine list rates 'special mention'; so, unfortunately, does the 'slow service' when the pub was only a third full. Assuming staffing issues are resolved, the only way is Essex.