With its white-stucco, bow-windowed façade and fluttering umbrellas, this regency hotel has long been a jolly presence on Sidmouth's esplanade. From grapefruit segments on the breakfast menu to the boast of 'colour TV' in room specs, it is old-fashioned in a way that appeals greatly to some more than others. 'No smart TV, no minibar, no fridge', a disappointed reader complained – and no duvet, just 'a heavy eiderdown and blanket'. Well, yes, the decor and furnishings are somewhat 20th-century. But the Riviera doesn't promise to be boutique or cutting edge, and it does not fall short of the high standards of hospitality that it sets for itself. It's either your sort of place or it isn't. In the restaurant you'll find dishes such as rack of lamb with thyme jus and ratatouille; Dover sole with lemon and chive butter sauce; wild mushroom, spinach and ricotta parcel. Should you fancy something lighter and cheaper, a Lyme Bay crab salad on the terrace suggests itself. Although the hotel now has new owners, they say no changes are to be expected in the imminent future – this is a hotel that moves at its own gentle pace.