The curious name of this Minervois wine village, between Narbonne and Carcassonne, comes from a Gallo-Roman villa called Ulmos (elms). Just outside it, reached by a towpath under plane trees, is this rustic restaurant-with-rooms, where you can sample the local vintages while eating on a terrace beside the Canal du Midi. A former chai (for storing wine that is not yet bottled), it was once a commanderie of the Order of Malta. “Amazing value and a delightful situation,” say visitors. “The outside was somewhat scruffy and the tables and chairs are simple and rustic. We enjoyed dining under trees watching the boats glide by. Every table was filled with locals. At dusk the tree lights were switched on and all was transformed. Excellent meals were much enjoyed: they included foie gras and smoked salmon anèthe. Our room was large and simply furnished, but everything was well thought-out, it was carpeted throughout and the bathroom was well equipped.” Winter meals are served in a large dining room. You can walk to the village and the port of Minervoise, some 200 yards along the towpath.