'Such a wonderful building; good value,' says a visitor about Françoise and Gérard Nicolas's 18th-century house, elegantly renovated in period style. South of the old town, in wooded grounds, it has 'stacks of character and a friendly welcome'. 'Our lovely high-ceilinged room overlooked the enchanting garden. The charming staff got up early to give us breakfast when we had to leave at 7 am.' The bedrooms have antique furniture; some are up stairs (no lift); the spacious ones on the first floor are particularly liked. Breakfast, served alfresco on fine days, includes cake, fruit, 'superb croissants'. No restaurant: L'Atre, near the port, serves 'excellent fish'; La Corderie, inexpensive, is enjoyed for its food, art show and sea view. The hotel can be awkward to find: they will send directions. There is secure parking, but if you arrive after 10.30 pm, you have to leave the car in the street.