Formerly the summer residence of the bishops of Tulle, this 11th-century château stands above the Dordogne, near Rocamadour: it has 'glorious views'. 'We loved the personal care and the informality; Françoise and Gilles Liebus are charming hosts,' say visitors. The chef, Pascal Perigord, serves regional cooking in a vaulted room above the river, eg, Quercy lamb, poached egg with truffles, foie gras, perch with roasted hazelnuts. Summer meals are served on a shady riverside veranda; a sunny terrace contains the swimming pool. Breakfast is an 'excellent buffet'. The building is 'eccentric, with ancient beams, creaky floorboards and spiral staircases', and bedrooms vary greatly. Some are large; some are in an adjacent 9th-century castle. 'Ours was in the keep, approached by a winding stone staircase.' Dissenters found their rooms 'awkwardly designed', some bathrooms are small, and the lounge 'small and unwelcoming'.