The Plitvice national park, in wooded hills way south of Zagreb, is famed for its 'seventeen lakes of a beautiful turquoise colour, linked by waterfalls and cascades: one of the great natural wonders of Europe'. It contains a big holiday complex, with a nightclub for dancing, an indoor swimming pool, sporting amenities and three hotels: this is the smallest. 'Very much at the upper end of a typical communist bloc state-run hotel: simple, but friendly, clean and convenient,' says a recent guest. The architecture and decor may be unappealing, but another visitor wrote: 'Our double room was palatial, with immaculate bathroom, top-quality linen. Food was good and inexpensive, and service was attentive, notably in the restaurant.' From a nearby bus-stop, you can reach Zagreb in about two hours.