In this 'old-fashioned summer resort' on the dramatic north Tyrrhenian coast, this 18th-century 'Liberty-style' building stands in lush grounds. Family antiques, portraits and paintings, and the original Art Nouveau glass panels give it 'the feel of a private house', say fans. Best bedrooms have sea views, others face the garden where alfresco meals are served on terraces under bougainvillaea, parasols and trees. 'Quite a few steps and no lift, but the porter is helpful.' The owner, Stefania Aquadro, is 'much in evidence', and the food is 'simple but excellent' (lots of local fish). Breakfast is 'very good, if rather formal (waiters in dinner jackets)'. There is a roof terrace, with sunbeds, and a small rocky beach below the hotel: its boat will take guests on trips on 'the water once crossed by Ulysses'. A 'well-used railway line' is nearby, 'but, oddly, you don't really hear the trains'. The hotel offers a shuttle to the beach in Aquafredda.