On a hillside in the Argonne forest (deer are sometimes seen), owner/chef Paul Aguesse and his wife, Roselyne, “an excellent hostess”, run this smart restaurant-with-rooms. “We sat with drinks under apple trees, very peaceful,” say visitors. Other comments: “A fabulously quiet, rural setting.” “Fantastic food.” “Excellent breakfast.” In the dining room, “sophisticated yet rustic”, with a huge fireplace, you can watch the sun setting over hills while you sample the modern cooking (eg, foie gras with purple artichokes; squab with wild mushrooms). Service is “cheerful and efficient”. “I fondly remember the cheese trolley.” But one guest thought his lobster main course “tough and tasteless”. Gault Millau writes of “chambres adorables”, but there are mixed views from correspondents: “Awkward design, odd choice of furnishings.” “Rather dark.” “A cool room in a Swiss-chalet-type building.” “We were very satisfied with our “charme” room with spa bath.” “Nice breakfast: very good orange juice, croissants, etc, and le patron will do eggs if asked.”