In the old centre of this former Cathar stronghold, this converted 13th-century château has “fabulous views” over surrounding countryside and bedrooms in two 17th-century buildings. It is “delightful, family-run, tasteful and clean”, said a visitor. “We were shown to enormous high-ceilinged rooms, with antiques. Bathrooms are spacious. Simple furnishings, but no tat.” Meals are served on the “lovely terrace” by the small swimming pool, or in a room with a large fireplace. Ingredients include “products of the terroir produced by our neighbours”. Breakfast, on the terrace, was “basic, but bread was fresh and croissants were hot”. A good base for viewing other castles in the area, such as Quéribus, and the Cathars” final stronghold at Montségur.