“Unqualified excellence all round. It is always a delight to stay here.” “The most comfortable of hotels.” Again there is enthusiasm for this 1930s house (Relais & Chateaux), turquoise-shuttered, in a walled garden near the ruined citadel of this medieval hilltop town near Le Touquet. Christian and Lindsay Germain have presided for over 25 years. He earns a Michelin star and three hats in Gault Millau for dishes such as Noix de St Jacques, fine purée de celeri, beurre vinaigre de cidre and Pigeonneau de Licques et foie gras de canard dans l'esprit d'un Hochepot Flamand. She is responsible for the decor. The bedrooms are liked: “Not too frilly.” “Our delightful room had a balcony facing garden and ramparts, fantastic bathroom with copper ceiling.” The “excellent” breakfast includes “hot loaves and rich jams”. Service, though formal, is friendly. Many residents are British, but French locals patronise the restaurant. “The staff are very good with children” (there is a babysitting service). Azincourt (Agincourt) village (with fine Centre Médiéval) is half an hour”s drive away.