In the Périgord Pourpre near Bergerac and Monbazillac, this 18th-century monastery has been converted into an elegant hotel. Set on a hillside facing vines and woods, it is run by resident owners Brigitte and Jean-Louis Viargues. The old fishpond can still be seen in the large grounds, and there is a big outdoor swimming pool. Spacious bedrooms, in the monastery, the windmill or the old bakery, bear local names; some rooms have a private terrace. There are sloping ceilings, antique furniture, tiles and old parquet floors.'We dined outside on the lawn as the sun set (the chef is Rémy Le Charpentier). In the morning we had to catch an early flight, and staff were up early too, giving us a delicious breakfast. They could not have been kinder.' Leisure activities include hiking, bike riding, discovery of the conservation area of the Dordogne and Vézère Valley. When the hotel's restaurant is closed, L'Estela in the nearby village of St Nexans is a cheerful alternative.(CR)