'Quite simply, one of the best small hotels we have stayed in.' In this fine old city, a Unesco World Heritage site, it is in part of a restored palazzo. 'The rooms (ours was immense) have been decorated in simple and imaginative good taste, and are complemented by tremendous service and a warm welcome from Cristina Summa, the owner, and all her staff. Everything is immaculate. 'Frescoed ceilings, ornate tiles and high windows abound; each room is named after a wind. Only B&B but there is a 'top-class' restaurant, under separate management – 'the best food we had in Sicily'. Courtyard parking 'a boon in this congested town'. (Phillip Gill)