'It felt like we were in France, looking out from the restaurant balcony at rows of vines.' Our inspectors were transported by their stay on this estate, once property of Viscount Portal, Chief of the Air Staff in WW2, now a family-run concern with a vineyard planted in 2017. The main building has 'a warehouse vibe', as do five lodges a stroll away. Designed by Will Hardie of Channel 4's Amazing Spaces, they are each named after a stage in a vine's life cycle. Two-bedroom Budburst had 'a blue ceiling mural in the main bedroom showing climbing vines, splashes of delicate pink throughout', including 'the impressive pink kitchenette with butler's sink, microwave toaster, and fully stocked wine fridge with bottles at cellar-door prices'. All have fresh flowers, a living area with log-burner, a claw-foot bath, south-facing decking. A second bathroom in Budburst had a power shower. You can join an informative tour and tasting. At lunch and dinner, short menus include dishes such as foraged nettle bhaji with coriander dressing, ribeye steak and chips, 'the freshest of seafood – lobster, sea bream; trout cured in the vineyard's Pointer's Pour gin. Everything was very convivial.'