In the centre of town, but quiet at night, stands this beautifully restored 16th-century half-timbered building. 'What a find for a first night in France,' write Guide readers (it is about two hour's drive from Calais). Once a Relais de Poste, it is set around a small courtyard. 'All cobbled floors on ground floor, in and out, lounge area, brasserie facing square, and dining room with fireplace for spit roast in the old stables. Decor and furnishings in character/era; tapestries and armour; geraniumed window boxes. Stairs everywhere, narrow passages and doors. No lift. Our room was named after Froissart, poet and chronicler born in Valenciennes. Brick walls, large bathroom, wooden beamed ceiling, creaky floors above. Owners much in evidence. First-class cuisine based on local specialties. Breakfast typically French. Great one night, full of character.'