In a village amid the “wonderful scenery” of the Morvan national park, this is a restaurant-with-rooms for mushroom enthusiasts. The owners, chef/patron Francis Salamolard and his wife, Odile, are charming, say fans: “They work hard to make their guests welcome.” He is “fou de champignons”: fricassée of mushrooms is a speciality, and each bedroom is named after a species of mushroom. Inside the 18th-century farmhouse, a “lovely fire burns, even in August” (âtre means “hearth”). There is a wide stone staircase, wooden panelling, period furniture. Bedrooms are “modern rustic”, “large, well decorated, well kept”. “At Sunday lunch, the beamed dining rooms heaved with French families. Excellent five-course menu; choice of 20 fabulous desserts. Attentive young staff. Enormous wine list.” “Good breakfast, served with Staffordshire china.” You can eat in the garden (with gnomes). Dogs are welcomed. Some traffic on the country road by day, quiet at night.